The blog for inspired travel with children
Showing posts with label denmark. Show all posts
Showing posts with label denmark. Show all posts

Friday, May 25, 2012

Copenhagen, Denmark



What follows is a verrrry incomplete list of Places You Must Take Your Child While in Copenhagen (or Kobenhavn) – after all, we were there for less than a week!  Not nearly enough time to do everything we wanted.  So instead of an exhaustive list, I’ll tell you what we did do that was wonderful – which was just about everything!  What fabulous spots did you find while in Copenhagen?   

Tivoli Let’s just get this one out of the way, because, come on: TIVOLI!  It’s always the first thing on everyone’s list.  Yes, it was fun.  However our son was too short to go on most of the rides (he was 5 1/2), so we spent much of our time there at Petzi’s World, which is an admittedly delightful playground within Tivoli.  We also spent an insanely long time in line waiting to order food. I think next time we may skip Tivoli and head to Bakken, another historic pleasure park located outside of the city, in a more bucolic setting. 


National Museum of Denmark The National Museum is a winner for everybody – beautiful displays of art, artifacts, interior architecture, mummies, etc. There is also a wonderful kid’s play area that includes a Viking boat, enchanting settings for dress-up and make-believe, and lots of opportunities for climbing and hiding.

Rosenborg Palace Garden We could have spent all day here – the formal gardens are so beautiful, and so relaxing to simply wander around.  Our son could have spent all day just in the gorgeous playground here.  Its design is incorporated into the formal arrangement of the gardens as a whole, and is enclosed by hedges.  Four distinct play areas extend from a central sandpit, which has a "moat" and is presided over by two incredible carved wooden dragons.  The play areas are simple and even elegant – one was a small forest of wooden posts, some of them with little carved elements here and there.  Another area was similar, but with wooden stumps instead of posts. There is a small cafĂ© across the path if you get hungry.




Rosenborg Castle and Royal Treasure The castle is beautiful, and do explore it.  But the Royal Treasure – good lord!  The collection of jewels is large and exquisite and so sparkly it made me crazy. 

The University of Copenhagen Botanical Garden We wandered into these gardens by chance late one afternoon, and were glad we did.  It’s a beautiful and fascinating place to wander and make discoveries.  So many winding paths and little botanical worlds within the garden.
                       
The Round Tower Do you need to exhaust your young one?  The Round Tower features a winding interior ramp that goes up and up and up…  at the top there is a small outside viewing area, with views all around.  We were grateful for the tiny and unexpected bathroom about halfway up.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art This wonderful museum is a few train stops north of the city and we almost didn’t go for that silly reason – I’m so glad we did!  The collections and exhibits were terrific, and the site itself, studded with large sculptures, is just a delight to stroll around.  There is a large grassy hill (great for rolling down) that looks out over the sea, with a wooded hillside criss-crossed with narrow footpaths.  The footpaths are part of an art installation.  

At the rear of the building is a large children’s wing, with connected rooms for different art activities.  The small lego room features a table and wall covered in grey lego flat pieces – all of the legos were yellow.  This simplified color palette really makes you focus on form – I thought it was great.  At the bottom of the wing is a large sculpture studio, with generous tables and slabs of clay ready to be worked.  From here we headed right out into the back of the property, where a path winds around a small lake (look for the miniature houses hidden in the woods) and a long hillside slide proved irresistible to my son. 

Royal Naval Museum This museum is home to hundreds of meticulously crafted scale model sailing ships.  I didn’t think of this as my cup of tea before we went, but I found them stunning.  The ships were used as models for shipbuilders, who might not be able to read or understand technical drawings.  My son was more interested in the very detailed dioramas dramatizing historic sea battles.  There’s also a terrific children’s play area in the basement with a pirate ship and “docks”.





Eating
  
While I wish we had had the chance to dine at Noma, we mostly kept it cheap and no-frills when it came to meals.  This involved eating more hot dogs than I really care to admit.  We couldn’t believe how many hot dog vendors we came across, but apparently it is a Thing.  Luckily, we also found a great little pizza place near our hotel, right next to a skate park – we dined al fresco and O got to practice his version of parkour as soon as he was finished.

Pizzaria La Fiorita: corner of Nansengade and Ahlefeldtsgade Streets


Arhus, Denmark





We spent just a few days in Arhus, but we came to really like it – it has a cozy feel, is very charming, and is easy to get around.  We were in town for the SPOT Festival, which features mostly Scandinavian bands.  We saw some great music at night, and during the day, while my husband was working, my son and I explored on foot.  First we wandered over to admire the sturdy brick Cathedral, which has a play fountain in the plaza out front.

We caught a bus in the center of town that took us to the beach just outside of town.  Since I don’t read Danish and was totally confused by the posted schedule, I just crossed my fingers and hoped I picked the right bus – and I did! The beach was low-key and very peaceful, although there was a bit of drama when a dense bank of fog suddenly rolled in, as jet-skis tried to race ahead of it and swimmers fled the water en masse. 

The beach, just south of downtown

One day we visited the large and curvaceous greenhouse in the Botanical Garden.  We wandered from one increasingly humid room to the next, ooh-ing and aah-ing at the incredible flora growing all around us.  The greenhouse backs up to Den Gamle By (The Old Town, a sort of mini historical faux-village representing a variety of time periods), which we skipped although it looked cute (my son wasn’t interested).  Next time!

 Inside the Greenhouse

Instead, we walked up the hill to the Steno Museum, a fascinating museum dedicated to the history of medicine and astronomy.  The museum had an entire room devoted to reproduction, with a giant soft sculpture womb (we climbed in and took a mini-nap), pregnancy costumes for trying on, and all kinds of startling items on display.  This was the type of place that could never-in-a-million-years happen in Texas, and it was great to see the subject explored so straightforwardly, even humorously. 

The Steno Museum also had all sorts of displays featuring historical medicines, prosthetics, equipment, you name it. These were fascinating - and occasionally horrifying.  While the astronomy part of the museum was a little advanced for my son, there were some hands-on exhibits that he was able to enjoy and even learn a little something from.

Arhus is one of those places that I would never have thought to visit (until the invitation to the SPOT Festival came along), but which turned out to be very charming.  We were pleased to meet you, Arhus!