Favorite Places x2: The Adventure Playground and Fourth Street in Berkeley, California

These two favorite places go together beautifully, with something for everybody!  If you are visiting the San Francisco Bay Area and don't know about the Adventure Playground over in Berkeley, you should - there aren't too many of these parks and this is a great one.  It was created in 1979 and still has that old 70s feeling, where kids run (relatively) wild and build their own world.  

By helping with a bit of cleanup, kids may earn hammers or paintbrushes, which they may use to make their own mark on the place.  They may also simply play - there's lots to climb on, in and through.  There's a zipline (for ages six and up), which my son's favorite part.  He also loves rolling down the small hill tucked inside a plastic barrel.  To each his own!

One of the excellent things about this park is it's location. It's right down by the water, with wonderful views in all directions, a little beach right next to the entrance, and plenty of places for walking and exploring.  It's a beautiful spot.  It also happens to be a few minutes drive from one of the best shopping districts around: Fourth Street in Berkeley. While Fourth Street is home to some chain stores, you will also find a large number of small and beautiful independent stores - The Gardener,  The Builders Booksource, Rabat (shoes), Castle in the Air, Miki's Paper... There are also several wonderful places to eat - I love Tacubaya, Bettie's To Go (I love eating a slice of their pizza out on the sidewalk), and O'Chame.

Back to the Adventure Playground: as a city park, admission to the Adventure Playground is free. However, for a small fee (a $10 flat fee as of this writing), kids aged seven and older maybe left here for up to three hours. Can you see where I am going with this?

Here's what you do: After registering at the office (a few steps from the Playground), drop the kids (remember, they must be at least seven) at the Adventure Playground. Then head up to Fourth Street for  lunch a bit of shopping.  When you're ready, pick up the kids... but don't leave yet.  Take a walk together down to the pier, or around Cesar Chavez Park.  It's a wonderful way to experience the bay - the views are fabulous, the air is bracing, and there's just so much to see.  

P.S. On April 18, the merchants of Fourth Street are hosting a sidewalk sale, with deals ranging from 40-60% off. Wish I could be there!

The San Francisco Bay Model

After spending an afternoon in San Francisco, we drove north across the Golden Gate Bridge and spent an hour at the amazing Bay Model Vistor Center - a working model of the entire bay water system and much of the Sacramento River Delta. The model was built by the Army Corps of Engineers in 1956-57 to demonstrate what would happen if the South Bay were dammed and infilled (as had been proposed).  Using simulated tidal action the Corps were able to prove that the results would be disastrous - the plan was, thankfully, shelved.  

The model (which is still owned and maintained by the Corps) is still in good shape and is admission is free.  It is well worth a visit with your kids.  The model is enormous (over 1.5 acres), and you can wander around the whole thing. "Tides" go in and out every 14 minutes, and water flows through the delta, into the bay, and out through the miniature Golden Gate. 

In addition to the model, there are displays on the history of Bay Area watercraft, the Marin Shipyard, World War II generally, and the modern workings of the bay.  Lots of models and artifacts and maps and other interesting stuff!

A model of the Marin Shipyard as it looked during World War II; the square building just left of center is where the Bay Model is housed today.

The view from outside the Model, looking towards Tiburon

If your children are reasonably calm and patient, try to squeeze in a visit to the Heath Ceramics store, which is also in Sausalito.  They make the most beautiful ceramics, and sell lots of other beautiful housewares too.  In the back, they sell seconds at a good discount (often it's hard to tell what the "problem" is).  When we visited, there was a little wooden playhouse in the courtyard outside the shop, making it easy to tag team (it's not the most child-friendly shop, unless your child is very good at keeping their hands to themselves).

If you still have time, there is another beautiful little store in Mill Valley (a few minutes north on Highway 101) called Mint.  It's tiny but carefully stocked with the most beautiful things for children and grown-ups…  When we visited, the proprietor seemed delighted with my son trying out various display toys.  Right down the street you'll find The Depot Bookstore and Cafe, which is not in itself stellar, but is a good spot for taking a break - the kids can play in the square out back while you sip your cappuccino on the back patio.

Santa Cruz: The Seymour Marine Discovery Center

The Queen of Aquariums in this part of the country is of course the wonderful Monterey Bay Aquarium.  However, if you are in the mood (or budget) for something more low-key, the Seymour Marine Discovery Center is a small and quiet but terrific alternative.  This aquarium features all sorts of gorgeous sea creatures - octopus, anemones, sea cucumbers, crabs, small sharks, fish, jellyfish, eels, barnacles, and the oddest worm you've ever seen.

The highlight for my son was getting to pet a real shark - in this case a very well-behaved Swell Shark (he was about a yard long). A kindly staff member showed each visitor the appropriate way to do it, and offered a hand towel afterwards for drying off arms.  I tried it too and I have to say, it was strangely thrilling. In a low-key way.  There was also a series of smaller saltwater basins for petting starfish and anemones, with a staff member on hand to answer questions (there were many).

There is a variety of exhibits on marine science - I saw very few children in this section however - it just couldn't compete with the fantastic animal life in the next room.

The Center is nicely situated on a bluff overlooking the Pacific; be sure to take a stroll during your visit.   You will not be able to miss the incredible (and beautiful!) blue whale skeleton installed outside. If you're hungry, there is a nice cafe in the neighborhood: Kelly's French Bakery (at the corner of Swift and Ingalls Streets). We sat outside in the sunshine and ate a delicious little spinach tart. Perfect afternoon!

Stay: San Ysidro Ranch

When I was about seven years old, my parents were lovely enough to whisk my sister and me away to Montecito, CA (near Santa Barbara) for a weekend at the San Ysidro Ranch.   This resort (it’s not what most people think of when they hear the word “ranch”) is low-key and glamorous in a distinctly Californian way.  I remember my mother excitedly telling me that this was where the Kennedys had honeymooned. 

It was certainly romantic – even at seven I was old enough to be enchanted by the pretty cottages and flowers everywhere.  My sister and I made friends at the pool, and I got to go on one of my first horse rides. 

The ranch is still going strong and it looks as beautiful as ever. They don't seem to offer horseback-riding these days, but they do have miles of hiking trails. The ranch occupies more than 500 acres and the views and landscapes are gorgeous.  Importantly, they are happy to accommodate children and families, offering baby monitors, tubs, baby-proofing, and other items and services. They even provide babysitting! What a special weekend this would be for some lucky child...

The City of Sonoma, California

The courtyard at the Mission in Sonoma

Sonoma, like Napa one valley over, is generally thought of as a playground for adults.  But if you find yourself up that way with nary a babysitter in sight, there is plenty to keep a young child going, too. 

We stayed with family in a sweet little cottage just outside of Glen Ellen, a little under eight miles north of the city of Sonoma on Rt. 12.  In the morning we had a terrific breakfast at El Molino Central.  I confess I chose this place because of its cuteness; happily the food was delicious too.  It’s a tiny place - we sat on the back patio since the weather was nice; O had a little room to spread out this way.

Our first stop in town was the Mission San Francisco Solano, sited right off the plaza at 20 East Spain Street.  Founded in 1823, it was the last-built of California’s twenty-one Missions. It’s a small but lovely place with a small courtyard in the rear. After some quiet time here we strolled across the street to the wood and adobe Soldiers' Barracks (built around 1840).  This building now houses exhibits, including a recreation of the soldier’s sleeping arrangements and a replica of the 1846 “Bear Flag”; the courtyard is open for sitting or poking around.

The courtyard of the Soldiers' Barracks

Replica of the 1846 “Bear Flag”

Having picked up some sandwich fixings at the little grocery store in Glen Ellen, we had a picnic lunch in the square in downtown Sonoma.  It was lovely, with tall trees providing lots of shade, and lush grass for lounging.  There are two play areas, which kept O busy for a long time. 

The most obvious child-friendly attraction in town is Train Town.  Train Town is a small amusement park not far from Sonoma’s plaza.  It features, of course, a train, which runs throughout the lush property making a stop in a miniature “ghost town.”  The train halts for about 10 minutes, so there is time to explore the little buildings and feed the goats that reside here. There are also a number of small carnival-type rides.  This is an easy-going little place, though - there is none of the stress or frenzy of a big theme park.  When we visited, there were no lines at all.  Warning: skip “The Scrambler” (I’m talking to you, not your kid!). 

Berkeley, California

Berkeley is a paradise for kids – there are beautiful parks all over the place, plenty of nice things to eat, even for the picky, and magical spots galore.  I’ve included some of our favorites below.  The weather is mild but variable – microclimates abound.  Wear layers!

The Berkeley Marina The Marina is one of my favorite spots – being right next to the water is invigorating, and you can see so much of the Bay Area from here.  You can hike around the old city dump (don’t worry, it’s now a park), or venture out on the pier, which stretches for more than half a mile into the bay (bring a jacket, it’s cold out there!). The small beach is lovely for kids.  A real gem is the Adventure Playground – it’s constructed primarily by children, and is a constant work-in-progress. Here kids can climb, build, paint, engage in imaginative play, and ride the zipline to their heart’s content.  Children aged 7 and older may be left for up to three hours for a small fee ($10 at this time) – leave them here to play and head over to Fourth Street for a bit of shopping or lunch.  Or, simply take a hike and enjoy some peace and quiet!

Lawrence Hall of Science The Lawrence Hall of Science is perched high in the Berkeley hills, with spectacular views from its outdoor areas.  Indoors, there is plenty for kids to do, including daily planetarium shows. The rear terrace has an interactive water feature and plenty of pleasant spots for parents to sit.  LHS is served by the 67 bus line, and just down the hill to the south is the Botanical Garden and Strawberry Canyon Pool.  1 Centennial Drive

Habitot Children’s Museum This small but terrific children’s play museum occupies the basement of the old Hink’s department store downtown.  There is water play, a play store, a wonderful art center (including a painting wall), and more. Habitot is most appropriate for toddlers.  2065 Kittredge Street

East Bay Vivarium This amazing pet shop sells reptiles and amphibians and is packed to the rafters with every sort of creature you can imagine (well, those which can legally be sold as a pet).  The merchandise is fascinating, the staff is knowledgeable, and kids are welcome to wander the aisles to their hearts’ content.  1827 5^th Street Ste. C

Sather Tower, more commonly known as the Campanile, sits in the middle of the UC Berkeley campus (it's that big tower in the image at top) and is the third tallest bell and clock tower in the world.  For a small fee, you can ride and climb to the top and enjoy fantastic views of the whole bay area.

Tilden Regional Park Tilden Park is huge, and has numerous terrific hiking trails and a lot more great views.  There is a carousel (an ice cream shop and a playground share the location). The Little Farm is home to pigs, goats, and other farmyard animals (as well as the Environmental Education Center).  Farther south is a miniature steam engine, which travels through the forest and is a delight (The Lawrence Hall of Science is close to this end of the park).

Codornices Park and Rose Garden Codornices is just a beautiful park and a great spot for a picnic.  The park is bowl shaped and surrounded by forested hillsides. The standout feature is the concrete slide (it dates to the 70s) which winds down a hill, past a glorious and patient old oak tree -  a constant stream of children (and some adults) trudge up the old staircase built into the hill, clutching scraps of cardboard to make the ride faster.  Some days it’s slow, some days it’s ridiculously fast – it’s always fun!  The Rose Garden is across the street, but you can get there via tunnel, which is of course more fun. Euclid Avenue between Eunice Street and Bayview Place

Live Oak Park Another lovely park with a well-shaded creek carving its way through it (there is also a playground).  I mostly mention this park because it is right down the street from the Thursday afternoon Farmer’s Market on Shattuck Avenue – grab some delicious food and head to the park for an easy picnic.  Shattuck Avenue between Eunice and Berryman Streets

Indian Rock Park  This is a neat little spot for older kids (i would say 5 or 6 and up) – years ago, somebody carved meandering steps into this giant rock outcropping.  The views are lovely, and it’s fun to just clamber around.  Corner of Indian Rock Avenue and San Mateo Road

Eat

Picante This excellent but super casual Mexican restaurant is large, fun, and good for large groups.  1328 6^th Street

Acme Bread What kid doesn't like bread?  And this is some of the best you'll ever eat.  They also have amazing croissants and other baked snacks. Southeast corner of San Pablo Avenue and Cedar Street

The Cheeseboard Collective By which I also mean their not-quite-adjacent pizza restaurant.  No plain cheese pizza here – the Cheese Board only offers one variety of pizza per day, and there are usually vegetables involved.  But the pizza is consistently delicious.  The Cheeseboard itself sells terrific baked goods and (of course) cheeses.  1504 Shattuck Avenue

Saul’s This large deli and restaurant is big, loud, and definitely child-friendly.  1475 Shattuck Avenue

Betty’s Oceanview Diner is great, but if the kids are really hungry, skip the wait and go next door to Betty’s-To-Go.  Pick up a delicious lunch in just a few minutes (I love their pizza) and sit on a bench outdoors.  1807 4^th Street

Vik’s Chaat If your child likes Indian food, get thee to Vik’s Chaat – this big and colorful establishment is the perfect speed for dining with kids.  There is also a small Indian grocery on the premises.  2390 4^th Street

Tokyo Fish This is not an eating establishment, but there is a great selection of Japanese snacks near the register, and it’s fun to browse the groceries.  1220 San Pablo Avenue

Shops

Mr. Mopps Children’s Books and Toys This place has been around forever!  Well, since 1962 anyway.  The store is large and packed, and has a train table for the kids in the book room.  1405 MLK Jr. Way

The Ark A beautiful toy and book shop featuring a well-edited selection of high-quality toys. Small play areas upstairs and down. 1812 4th Street

Favorite Places: The Ferry Building in San Francisco

The Ferry Building is one place I always try to visit when we’re in the Bay Area, because it is just such a reliable pleasure for everyone involved.  Hidden for decades behind an ugly double-decker freeway, the building was liberated by the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake - the freeway came down for good in 1991, and the building's reincarnation as a first-rate destination and gathering place by the preservation architecture firm Page & Turnbull  (among others) was completed in 2003.

The Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market is held Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10 am to 2 pm, and on Saturday from 8 am to 2 pm.  It’s worth visiting even you don’t have a kitchen to bring veggies home to, because of course they also sell fruit and other fantastic picnic-ready items. But you can eat and dine here any day, and it’s hard to find a place that is so child-friendly and also offers such high-quality eats, all in such a wonderful setting. 

The food offerings throughout are amazing, and you can’t really go wrong (Click here for a full list of merchants).  Although there are several sit-down restaurants, I prefer to get my meal to-go, and eat outdoors on the bayside.  My favorites include Acme Bread Company, Frog Hollow Farm, Boulette’s Larder, and Boccalone Salumeria…  but poke around for yourself, you’ll want to try everything.  The nice thing is you can also easily pick up some great olive oil or other edible souvenir here, and just take everything with you.  

For shopping, be sure to visit The Gardener and Heath Ceramics – both stock consistently gorgeous wares, mostly for the home.  Distract your little one with something delicious while you browse (the shops are small - almost kiosks).

We love to eat our lunch while watching the action on the bay – the bridge seems to tower over the scene, the bay is a fantastic deep shade of blue, and all manner of watercraft is continually coming and going.  Seagulls play over the water.  It's usually pleasantly breezy.  My son runs around for a bit while I relax on a bench and soak up the sun (or lack thereof – I don’t really mind either way).  

From the Ferry Building, you can journey in a number of directions.  It's fun to take a ride in one of the beautiful vintage streetcars zipping around; you can go down towards Fisherman's Wharf, or up Market Street towards downtown. Or just go for a stroll up the embarcadero, towards nothing in particular.